Little besides dots of nomadic tribes and spectres of Soviet concentration camps haunt the icy desert of the Russian Arctic. But deep beneath the permafrost lie untold treasures: a cache of oil and gas so big it could sustain a fiscally-troubled Russia for decades. I faced government barriers and temperatures as low as -45ºC (-49ºF) to capture three conflicting lifestyles: first there were the indigenous Nenets, who roamed the tundra for centuries. The Soviet Union came and crushed them under industrial cities. Today, gas and oil exploration outposts rise out of the tundra, tapping the billions of tonnes of energy below.